If you're thinking about heading out to the so-called Seven Sacred Pools, out past Hana at the Kipahulu end of Haleakala National Park, let's clear this up right now: There are more than seven pools--about 24, actually--and all water in Hawaii is considered sacred. It's all a PR scam that has spun out of control into contemporary myth. Folks here call the attraction by its rightful name, Oheo Gulch, and visitors sometimes refer to it as Kipahulu, which is actually the name of the area where Oheo Gulch is located. No matter what you call it, it's a beautiful sight. The dazzling series of waterfall pools and cataracts cascading into the sea is so popular that it now has its own roadside parking lot.
Even Farther Around the Bend
Those of you who are continuing on around Maui to the fishing village of Kaupo and beyond should be warned that Kaupo Road, or Old Piilani Highway (Highway 31), is rough and unpaved in parts, often full of potholes and ruts. About 2½miles past Oheo Gulch, the pavement ends for about 5 miles--5 very rough miles as the narrow road becomes one lane around blind bends hugging the ocean cliffs, wandering in and out of valleys with sharp rock walls lining the single-car road. You may encounter wild pigs and stray cows. There are no phones or services until you reach Ulupalakua Ranch where there's a winery, general store, and gas station, which is likely to be closed. Before you attempt it, ask around about road conditions, or call the Maui Public Works Department (tel. 808/248-8254) or the Police Department (tel. 808/248-8311). This road frequently washes out in the rain. You'd really be better off retracing your route through Hana.
About 6 miles and about 60 minutes from Oheo Gulch, you'll see the restored Huialoha Congregationalist "Circuit" Church, originally constructed in 1859. Across from the church and down the road a bit is the Kaupo Store (tel. 808/248-8054), which marks the center of the ranching community of Kaupo. Store hours are officially Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 4:30pm, but in this arid cattle country, posted store hours often prove meaningless. The Kaupo Store is the last of the Soon family stores, which at one time stretched from Kaupo to Keanae.
From the Kaupo Store, the landscape turns into barren, dry desert. In the lee of Haleakala, this area gets little rain. Between mile markers 29 and 30, look for the ancient lava flow that created an arch as it rolled down Haleakala. Keep an eye peeled for cattle, because this is open range country. Eventually the road will wind uphill, and suddenly the forest and greenery of Ulupalakula come into sight. The upcountry town is about 45 minutes from Kahului.
Lindbergh's Grave
A mile past Oheo Gulch on the ocean side of the road is Lindbergh's Grave. First to fly across the Atlantic Ocean, Charles A. Lindbergh (1902-74) found peace in the Pacific; he settled in Hana, where he died of cancer in 1974. The famous aviator is buried under river stones in a seaside graveyard behind the 1857 Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church, where his tombstone is engraved with his own words: "If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea. . . ."
Tropical Haleakala: Oheo Gulch at Kipahulu
If you're thinking about heading out to the so-called Seven Sacred Pools, out past Hana at the Kipahulu end of Haleakala National Park, let's clear this up right now: There are more than seven pools--about 24, actually--and all water in Hawaii is considered sacred. It's all a PR scam that has spun out of control into contemporary myth. Folks here call the attraction by its rightful name, Oheo Gulch, and visitors sometimes refer to it as Kipahulu, which is actually the name of the area where Oheo Gulch is located. No matter what you call it, it's a beautiful sight. The dazzling series of waterfall pools and cataracts cascading into the sea is so popular that it now has its own roadside parking lot.
Access Points--Even though Oheo is part of Haleakala National Park, you cannot drive from the summit. Even hiking from Halekala to Oheo is tricky: The access trail out of Haleakala is down Kaupo Gap, which ends at the ocean, a good 6 miles down the coast from Oheo. To drive to Oheo, head for Hana, some 60 miles from Kahului on the Hana Highway (Highway 36). Oheo is about 30 to 50 minutes beyond Hana, along Highway 31. The Highway 31 bridge passes over pools near the ocean; the other pools, plus magnificent 400-foot Waimoku falls, are reachable via an often-muddy but rewarding, hour-long uphill hike. Expect showers on the Kipahulu coast.
Visitor Center--The Kipahulu Ranger Station (tel. 808/248-7375) is staffed from 9am to 5pm daily. Rest rooms are available, but no drinking water. Kipahulu rangers offer safety information, exhibits, books, and a variety of walks and hikes year-round; check at the station for current activities.
Hiking & Camping--There are a number of hikes in the park, and tent camping is allowed.
Check with the Haleakala Park rangers before hiking up to or swimming in the pools, and always keep one eye on the water in the streams; the sky can be sunny near the coast, but flood waters travel 6 miles down from 8,000 acres of Kipahulu Valley and can rise 4 feet in less than 10 minutes.
